The Islands of the Inca

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  Iñak Uyu    . 1517 Iñak Uyu For we are here at Iñak Uyu,  the house of the chosen Virgins, we are honoured to have been taken from our families to live our cloistered life in this place. I am alone …

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The Long and Windy Road

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  The city at the edge   . Rodrigo’s minivan is winding its way through the rainy streets of El Alto, Bolivia’s newest city incorporated twenty years ago. Up to that point it had been part of the ever expanding …

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Going Through the Mangle

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 . Why do this to yourself? This isn’t a holiday this is an assault on the body. . I had no idea when we booked this trip quite what we were letting ourselves in for, it all seems so exciting …

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La Paz and Waltzing Matilda

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If you look to the side of this post or at the comments on the last two posts you’ll see a couple of comments from our friend Annie (A. Has-Been) where she picks up on our slightly down feeling and …

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Goggle Eyed in Salta

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  Salta is the Watford Gap of Argentina, a sort of staging post between Buenos Aires and Peru.    A road was built to enable transportation of Lithium, silver, vanilla and sugar from South America called the Pan American highway, …

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Let sleeping dogs lie

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  Esteban the dog sleeps in the shop entrance. It’s Sunday afternoon in Salta and the streets are empty. The powerfully hot sun beats down, and the occasional light breeze fans the mad dogs and Englishmen who roam the streets in the hot …

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The Day of the Dead

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  Is it true that if you spend long enough in a cemetery the dead will talk to you? One of the places to visit in Buenos Aires is the cemetery in Recoleta, like Brompton or Highgate it is monumental …

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Pre-Altitude Training

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      From tomorrow we’re alcohol free for a while as we prepare for climbing to higher altitudes. The various bits of advice we’ve received suggest that many things are to be omitted from our diet before we head …

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Don’t Cry for me Argentina

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Walking through the centre of Buenos Aires is not pleasant, it is noisy, polluted and difficult to navigate. A large road possibly three or four times the width of Oxford Street passes like a backbone down the centre. Unlike the …

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The Barrios of Buenos Aires

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  Avenue 9 de Julio We awake on Avenue 9 de Julio after the events of the night before. Somewhere across the city is an empty apartment abandoned by its UK visitors just after they arrived. The NH hotel is located …

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